You want to cultivate your own chillis? Find out there all you will need. From fertilizer to plants pots and earth, shop all your chilli gonna need to grow up!
Take care of your Chilli plants and they will take care of you with a lot of different chilli varieties!
The sensitive chilli germ bud must be transplanted into the appropriate pots. When the plants are big enough, it is ideal that these are placed in a 10L pot that is black. Why black? Because the dark color attracts the sunrays and also the warmth. The earth of the chilies is heated up and the plants can develop and build pods!
As soon as your chilli plant starts flowering and growing fruit, you should raise the nutrients that you give your plant so that you have good results when harvesting. Together with our pro chili growers we have developed specially for you a chilli fertilizer that is perfectly suited for the needs of the needs of chilli plants. The more the pods of your chilli plant grow, the more nutrients the plant needs. We have also for this the perfect solution: out chilli binding wire that has a soft outer layer. This way the branching of your chilli is protected against cuts.
It is best that you take a look in this section so that you can see what cultivation accessories you need in order to grow happy and healthy chilli plants.
Other care tips for indoors and outdoors
Wattering / Spraying
The chili and pepper plants should always have enough water, but should not be in water. They like it warm and humid to dry, but not wet. It's better to spray them occasionnaly from the top, because they don't get any humidity in the apartment. In addition, the wetness also prevents pests (e.g. spider mites), which like it dry and warm.
We always handle it in such a way that we water properly and then let the earth dry off a little (not totally!!!). This way not every plant will die later if you wait a little longer with watering.
Wattering / Spraying
Usually the chillis are watered in the evening - the duration depends on how much water they needed. – You should always try to add only as much water as is really necessary. This way the roots of the chilli plants grow much stronger, find the necessary water themselves and can withstand a little more drought later.
We should slowly acclimate the plants to sun and heat/cold. So always have look when there are the first record temperatures that the plants slowly get used to the fact that it gets a little cooler when the window is open all night. At the end, this point can be largely neglected, as there are no big changes here.
Here the whole thing looks different. It is important to note that you do not plant in the midday heat. But you can put the plants in their pots outside for some time before planting, so that they get used to the other differents weathers (sun, rain, temperature differences, wind etc.). It is also important to wait until mid/end of May before planting, as the nights before can often be relatively cold. It comes also cold spells (e.g. frost) before that.
We usually plant our chilies on an evening at the end of May. It's also favorable if it rains a little bit, so that the plants grow well. If not, you should not forget to water the plants well. We also tie all plants to sticks as a precaution - even those that have a regular growth. Because if there is a real storm, they will not stand up anymore without this stick. Tying them up also offers protection when it hails or heavy downpours occur. The chillies then break off much less frequently.
Pruning / Thinning-out
Some of you may be familiar with tomato plants (removal of lateral shoots from the leaf axils). And since they also belong to the Solanacae plant family, some of you might suspect that they could increase the yield of chillies in the same way. But it's not necessary to thin out the chilli and pepper plants. The plants can be shortened slightly. It's better to cut directly above a leaf branch. This possibility is probably especially interesting for people who have the plants in their homes.
We can't say whether pruning will bring a higher yield overall. We have tested both variants and could not find a really big difference.
We only cut our chilies properly for winter. But you will find more about this in the section "Hibernation".
Breaking free the flower?
Here we mean that the flower is breaking off in the first branch. Once again a topic when opinions differ. Some say that it should definitely be be done for certain varieties or types. Others think it is not necessary. Meanwhile there are also studies on this topic. So far it has been confirmed that the royal blossom has no influence on the yield.
So far, we have always let the plants decide for themselves. If the first flower has grown, stayed on and has fallen off by itself, which is good too. Nevertheless, every plant still had fruit. From a purely point of view of survival, it would be also absurd for the plant, if all the power went into just one flower. The amount of seeds would be then comparatively small and there would be hardly any offspring.
Outside, insects naturally take over. But who wants to have them in the flat!
This problem indoor is easy to solve. First of all, small air movements are usually enough for the pollen to fall out and you can also simply spread the pollen with a small brush. If you want to use seeds from the plants for the following year, you should make sure to use a separate brush for each plant (or for each variety) to avoid crossbreeding.
The most suitable fertilizer for chilies are tomatoe- or vegetable fertilizers.
Special soil is often already fertilized, so that you don't have to fertilize right away. Prefertilized soil has the advantage that the plants are well supplied with nutrients from the beginning. In addition, the fertilizer is in exactly the right proportion and the risk of overfertilization is therefore lower.
We usually fertilize the first time when the first buds appear. Tomato fertilizer is used, which we dose according to the package. Hoever, it's better to use less than too much. If you over-fertilise the plants, they often can hardly to be saved, because the water is literally taken away from them by the fertilised soil, which should be the other way round.